Guest Blogger Kid from Alex writes about life in Alexandria, Egypt, in the 1950's & 1960's.
Here is something to go with the pictures (which are below with more of my photos posted in Marash Girl's blog yesterday).
I was born and lived in Alexandria, Egypt, 'til the age of 19. We lived a simple but happy and very safe life in the Armenian residential apartment building in the Armenian section of Alexandria, which included the St. Paul and St. Peter Church, the Boghosian Armenian School, an athletic stadium "Gamk", and church offices. This was an old establishment; in 1820 Boghos Bey Yousoufian bought this land and property from an Egyptian Arab named Saied Mohamed for 160,000 Egyptian currencies. In 1838 as the Armenian population in Alexandria was growing, Boghos Bey donated his real estate with two buildings, on Abou Dardaa street, parks and a massive land to the Armenian community, with the dream to build a newer church and school and keep the Armenians together, save their culture, and educate the new comers. After his death in 1844, the Armenian Community Committee was formed, and eventually as years went by, a new church, and school were built carrying his name, "St. Boghos Bedros Church" and the school "Boghosian National Armenian School". Later on, a large residential apartment building on Abou Dardaa street, was built, replacing the original buildings that Boghos Bey owned. This section of Alexandria, called Laaban, and the Armenian quarters are very well known by taxi drivers & other transportation and delivery people: you don't have to give the address -- just say Armenian quarters, (waqaalat Armally). Two private roads, one from Abou Dardaa street and one from Al-Badawi street, both take you to a dead end with large metal gates. From Al-Badawi is the side entrance to the church and church offices, and from Abou Dardaa the side to the Gamk stadium and the school which also connects to the church. Now you can understand when I say "living a safe life" in the Armenian Apartment building, in 18 years, there was not even one major crime.
Many influential Armenians lived in the Armenian Apartment building: school principals, teachers, the local Postmaster (Armenian), doctors, lawyers, and even the wife of Armenian (fedayi) freedom fighter Serop Aghpuir Vartanian, a hero herself -- Sossy Mayrig Vartanian (in apartment #12). Each floor had two large hallways, 40 x 10 feet, where at times children used to play, and folks would hold birthday and engagement parties. Everyone knew each other, every one looked out for each other. Afternoons, ladies got together for coffee, neighbors borrowed sugar or eggs, and most importantly yogurt (madzoun) cultures from each other. And of course some neighbor's yogurt culture was better than others and made better yogurt (madzoun). We had two doormen (security-caretakers) who watched out for the residents.
Because it was a large tenant building, it was profitable for vendors-peddlers, but only selected ones were allowed in the building, and for many many years we had the same vendors. And it was a routine and part of life. At 7am every day, the milkman would come in and announce his presence in each hallway, carrying a 5 gallon milk container, ladies would open their doors and stand with a cooking pan; milkman would measure and pour the requested amount in the pan. The pan was immediately put on the stove to bring to a boil, (the milk was fresh, not pasteurized or homogenized), and as it cooled the cream would rise and create a thick film (skin) which was later put on toast and drizzle with honey for breakfast. Then at 7:15, the bread vendor with baskets full of warm fresh French baguettes -- mothers would make sandwiches for school lunch with this tasty bread. Later on the vegetable peddler named Aam Moursi would arrive, with baskets full of seasonal goodies. Aam Moursi's height and specific appearance would identify him as a true ancestor of the old Egyptians, perhaps a descendant from Ramses. Mid-morning the Makwagi (shirt and pants ironer) would collect shirts and pants and after ironing them, would bring them back in the afternoon. All these vendors knew residents by their name and or their apartment number.
Boghos Bey Yusufian (1768 – 1844)was such a successful businessman that he soon became the Governor Mohamed Ali’s partner. Boghos Bey was appointed the Wali’s chief dragoman, or translator, first counselor, official spokesman, Minister of Commerce and Foreign Affairs, and for decades Egypt’s leading statesman. The Wali placed such implicit trust in him that he signed documents even before they were drafted by Boghos Bey. As Afaf Lutfi al-Sayyid Marsot, a historian of modern Egypt, testifies, “Boghos has been given several carte blanches by the Wali, and could draw on the treasury for any sum whenever he needed funds for himself. He was never paid a regular salary but the Wali trusted him to do as he pleased in terms of payment. For a man as suspicious as Mohamed Ali was, this was a signal proof of trust and a unique favor allowed to no one else.” In the reign of Mohamed Ali, Boghos was the first Christian to be granted the title of Bey.
Here is something to go with the pictures (which are below with more of my photos posted in Marash Girl's blog yesterday).
I was born and lived in Alexandria, Egypt, 'til the age of 19. We lived a simple but happy and very safe life in the Armenian residential apartment building in the Armenian section of Alexandria, which included the St. Paul and St. Peter Church, the Boghosian Armenian School, an athletic stadium "Gamk", and church offices. This was an old establishment; in 1820 Boghos Bey Yousoufian bought this land and property from an Egyptian Arab named Saied Mohamed for 160,000 Egyptian currencies. In 1838 as the Armenian population in Alexandria was growing, Boghos Bey donated his real estate with two buildings, on Abou Dardaa street, parks and a massive land to the Armenian community, with the dream to build a newer church and school and keep the Armenians together, save their culture, and educate the new comers. After his death in 1844, the Armenian Community Committee was formed, and eventually as years went by, a new church, and school were built carrying his name, "St. Boghos Bedros Church" and the school "Boghosian National Armenian School". Later on, a large residential apartment building on Abou Dardaa street, was built, replacing the original buildings that Boghos Bey owned. This section of Alexandria, called Laaban, and the Armenian quarters are very well known by taxi drivers & other transportation and delivery people: you don't have to give the address -- just say Armenian quarters, (waqaalat Armally). Two private roads, one from Abou Dardaa street and one from Al-Badawi street, both take you to a dead end with large metal gates. From Al-Badawi is the side entrance to the church and church offices, and from Abou Dardaa the side to the Gamk stadium and the school which also connects to the church. Now you can understand when I say "living a safe life" in the Armenian Apartment building, in 18 years, there was not even one major crime.
Many influential Armenians lived in the Armenian Apartment building: school principals, teachers, the local Postmaster (Armenian), doctors, lawyers, and even the wife of Armenian (fedayi) freedom fighter Serop Aghpuir Vartanian, a hero herself -- Sossy Mayrig Vartanian (in apartment #12). Each floor had two large hallways, 40 x 10 feet, where at times children used to play, and folks would hold birthday and engagement parties. Everyone knew each other, every one looked out for each other. Afternoons, ladies got together for coffee, neighbors borrowed sugar or eggs, and most importantly yogurt (madzoun) cultures from each other. And of course some neighbor's yogurt culture was better than others and made better yogurt (madzoun). We had two doormen (security-caretakers) who watched out for the residents.
Because it was a large tenant building, it was profitable for vendors-peddlers, but only selected ones were allowed in the building, and for many many years we had the same vendors. And it was a routine and part of life. At 7am every day, the milkman would come in and announce his presence in each hallway, carrying a 5 gallon milk container, ladies would open their doors and stand with a cooking pan; milkman would measure and pour the requested amount in the pan. The pan was immediately put on the stove to bring to a boil, (the milk was fresh, not pasteurized or homogenized), and as it cooled the cream would rise and create a thick film (skin) which was later put on toast and drizzle with honey for breakfast. Then at 7:15, the bread vendor with baskets full of warm fresh French baguettes -- mothers would make sandwiches for school lunch with this tasty bread. Later on the vegetable peddler named Aam Moursi would arrive, with baskets full of seasonal goodies. Aam Moursi's height and specific appearance would identify him as a true ancestor of the old Egyptians, perhaps a descendant from Ramses. Mid-morning the Makwagi (shirt and pants ironer) would collect shirts and pants and after ironing them, would bring them back in the afternoon. All these vendors knew residents by their name and or their apartment number.
Above, the Armenian Genocide Memorial Khatchkar located next to the Armenian Apostolic Church in Alexandria.
Above: Khatchkar, April 24, 2005, commemoration ceremony. Scouts guarding the Armenian Genocide Memorial, Alex
1950- 1964, surrounding the Armenian quarters in Alexandria were many industrial, manufacturing and trade shops mostly owned by Armenians: Leylekians, Dersimonians, Piligians, Vartsbedians, Hagopians, and many more.
And, although Kid from Alex had no picture to prove it, he wanted us to know that the Armenians of Alexandria also had the Arachtimasser Cultural and Youth Center.
Though the Kid was not quite sure, he writes, I think in mid 1950's AGBU (The Armenian General Benevolent Union) bought the building pictured below (it has an outdoor basketball court and track and field) and gave it to HMEM (The Armenian General Athletic Union and Scouts known as HOMENETMEN).
Left: HMEM Club, AGBU Building, Alexandria, Egypt
Sourp Krikor Lusavorich, (St Gregory)Armenian Church in Cairo, Egypt
Thanks to guest blogger KID FROM ALEX for this interesting account of Armenians in Alexandria, Egypt.
When I visited Alexandria, I was chagrined to walk a residential street called (I believe) Shari'a Al-Arman (Armenian Street). Is it still called that? In the mid-late 1990's, most of the Armenian community of Egypt had left. I know some had repatriated Hayastan, and many came to the U.S. Just curious to know if the community is sustaining itself there. I loved Alexandria. Loved it.
ReplyDeleteAli:
DeleteI know Shara'a el Arman very well (there may be more than one Shara'a el Arman in Alexandria)...the one I am very familiar with is/was in Sidi Bishr #3, the first bus stop after the Miami (Sidi Bishr #2) bus stop. Everyone knew it as Shara'a el Arman when I was growing up. You could tell the bus driver to stop for you there, or the cab driver...everyone knew, no questions asked. I left Egypt like everyone else. Then I returned for a visit. Told the cab driver to stop at Shara'a el Arman... he looked at me like I was stupid...he didn't know what the heck I was talking about...I quickly figured that there was to be no Armenian footprint left in Egypt...like in Turkey... our brief history in Egypt had been obliterated. I had to ask him to slow down, and I would tell him where to stop. He did. Once he stopped at the entrance of Shara'a el Arman, on the Corniche, I suddenly burst out into uncontrollable tears. I could not stop, the cab driver did not know what to do with me. I felt sorry for him, as I was so distressed that I could not explain to him what was going on...I gave him the money and told him to leave me there. The poor guy was confused and in typical gentlemanly manner, seemed embarrassed to leave a distraught lady on the sidewalk and drive off. I did not even want to find out what the official name of the street was. I wanted to remember it as the Street of the Armenians.
The first two apartment buildings, the one on the Corniche and the one behind it on the left of the street, were my family's. My father worked his whole life in order to build his dream investment in Egypt, "from scratch". He worked long hours, never enjoyed life (he had been orphaned by the Turkish genocide of the Armenians). My mother would take us out of school early every year so we could get to the apartments before the tourist season started in July...she would paint the shutters, have the mattresses cleaned out, the apartments freshened up for the oncoming vacationers from Cairo. The Mediterranean breeze would flow through every apartment and freshen them up. I can smell it now. Those were the days.
Answer to Ali: I can't remember the street Sharagh Al-Arman. Before 1964 there were 45,000 Armenians lived in Egypt, (Alexandria and Cairo), today less than 6000. During 1962-1966 Egypt introduced of what is called the “Socialist Laws” and the nationalization of many basic economic firms under the Nasser regime. Since Armenian Egyptians at that time were working in the private sector and monopolizing basic professions and trade markets, the socialist laws affected them more than those who worked in the governmental sector or in agriculture. Some of my friends' family business were nationalized, such as the chewing gum factory, oil and butter factories, cigarette factories and many more; since these were Armenian owned companies of course they employed many Armenians. It was a chain reaction of uncertainty, unstable future, and somehow reminded them of their past experience in their homeland of historic Armenia. Reverse migration started to the western countries, mainly USA, Canada, Australia and Armenia. My friends and I were separated, I came to the USA, and many went to Canada, Australia and Armenia.
ReplyDeleteI just showed this to blog entry to a new friend, a student from Alexandria. Mohammad tells me that he lives near the church in the pictures and that he went to a wedding in that church.
ReplyDeleteMarko Pasha
@Anonymous Marko Pasha - - Please ask your friend to add his memories to this or any other of the posts on Egypt! Would love to hear from him.
ReplyDeleteDears,
ReplyDeleteI am currently working in a photography book, and was searching for an Egyptian Armenian who is living in Alexandria , to do an interview with him/her , talking about her/his own vision and hope for rebuilding a new Egypt. I am from Cairo , that`s why I found it difficult to reach to any in Alexandria. Yet this blog gave me hope that it might connect me to anyone over there.
I would appreciate your help.
PS: I have a proposal for the book :) just in case anyone interested to know more.
St Gregory Church in Cairo was on Malika Nazli street and sometime in 1945, I attended the Armenian primary school at the rear of the church where I learned to say in Armenian: "Good morning teacher" (Pare lius oriort). My Armenian grandmother, Araxi Artinian was keen for me to learn to speak Armenian. She had cousins in Alexandria and my grandfather step brother, Nazaret Artinian had a shoe shop and factory in Alexandria. They are all dead now. I am 70 years old and migrated to Australia in 1963.
ReplyDeleteI knew Nazaret Artinian, his son was my friend and school classmate in the Armenian School. He now lives in Montreal, Canada. Kid From Alex
ReplyDeletegreat pictures, as far as I can remember, the Homenetmen Club was located in Camp Cesar, I used to live there...
DeleteCould you display more pictures on the Armenian Church Abou Dardar ?
I'm posting new photos today.
DeleteI have 5 new photos of St Paul & St Peter Armenian Church of Alexandria, Egypt. I tried to post them here, but was unable. I'll try again and see.
DeleteՍ. Պողոս Պետրոս Հայկական Եկեղեցի, Աղէքսանդրիա, Եգիպտոս
Hello Kid from Alex. My father in law is Hagop Artinian, Nazareth's son living in Montreal, Canada. How can we reach out to you? Thanks!
DeleteRaffi
do you have any more pictures?
ReplyDeleteNo, the photos are not mine. I'll try to find more photos, though.
DeleteParev, When Paul and Peter Armenian Apostolic Church (Alexandria) was built which date? Some of my friends say that it was built 133 years ago, some say it's more than that date. Ս. Պողոս Պետրոս Հայկական Եկեղեցի, Աղէքսանդրիա, Եգիպտոս: Thank you
ReplyDeleteI have a great grandfather buried in the Armenian Cemetery in Alexandria, Egypt and wonder if you know someone there who would locate and send me a picture of his gravesite? I would be happy to compensate them for their time and trouble. Thank you.
ReplyDelete